At Roberto SuMisura, every garment is built by hand with the discipline of traditional bespoke tailoring. Below are the construction details that define our work — the choices that separate a garment that simply fits from one that lasts a lifetime.

Jacket Construction

Detail 1 — Canvas

Chest Canvas

A partial canvas running through the chest area only, giving shape and natural drape to the jacket while remaining lightweight and breathable.

Half Canvas

Canvas extends through the chest, lapel and down to the waist, fully handmade. The jacket moves with the body and moulds to the wearer over time — the benchmark of quality tailoring.

Full Canvas

Canvas runs the full length of the jacket front, entirely handmade. The highest level of construction — unrivalled structure, drape, and longevity. A garment built to be passed down.

Full Canvas construction — Piacenza Alashan Breeze · 49% Silk | 34% Cashmere | 17% Linen

Detail 2 — Shoulder

Spalla Camicia

The Spalla Camicia — or "shirt shoulder" — is a hallmark of Neapolitan tailoring. The sleeve is hand-sewn into the armhole with a slight gather and natural roll, creating a soft, unstructured shoulder line that sits with effortless ease. There is no padding, no stiffening — only the natural fall of the fabric and the skill of the hand that set it. One of the most demanding techniques in bespoke tailoring, and one of the most beautiful.

Spalla Camicia — Hand-set shirt shoulder

Detail 3 — Lining

Full Lining

The entire jacket interior is lined, offering a smooth finish and ease of wear. Traditional and polished.

Full Lining — complete Officine Paladino interior finish

Half Lining

The back panel is left unlined below the shoulder, allowing the jacket to breathe — ideal for warmer climates.

Half Lining — open back panel for breathability

Shoulder and Sleeve Lining

Minimal lining at the shoulders and sleeves only. Maximum breathability with a clean, refined interior.

Shoulder & Sleeve Lining — maximum breathability, refined finish

No Lining

Fully unlined construction for the warmest conditions. The interior seams are finished cleanly for a lightweight, summer-ready jacket.

No Lining (except sleeves) — summer-ready, clean interior finish

Detail 4 — Stitches

Pic Stitching

A single row of hand-stitching along the lapel and jacket edges — a subtle mark of craft visible only up close.

Double Pic Stitching

Two parallel rows of hand-stitching along the edges, adding a bolder decorative detail with a sporting or Neapolitan character.

Edge Stitch

Machine or hand stitching precisely at the edge of the lapel and collar, giving a crisp, defined finish.

Milanese Lapel Holes

The buttonhole on the lapel is worked in the Milanese style — a hand-sewn, corded buttonhole known for its raised ridge and exceptional durability. A true hallmark of fine tailoring.

Milanese Lapel Hole — hand-sewn, corded & raised

Hand Stitched Button Holes

Every buttonhole is worked entirely by hand. Tighter, stronger, and more beautiful than any machine can produce.

Hand Stitched Button Holes — worked entirely by hand

Bar Tack Stitches

Hand-sewn bar tacks reinforce the points of stress — pocket openings, vent corners — ensuring the jacket holds its form through years of wear.

Bar Tack Stitch — hand-sewn reinforcement at points of stress

Trouser Construction

Hand Basted Construction with Cotton Fabric

Every trouser is basted by hand during fitting stages, allowing precise adjustments before the final seam is sewn. The internal structure uses 100% cotton for breathability and stability.

100% Cotton Pockets

Pocket bags are cut from 100% cotton — durable, breathable, and naturally soft against the hand.

Hand Basted Construction — 100% cotton internals & pocket bags

Crotch Reinforcements

The crotch seam is reinforced by hand, the highest-stress point on any trouser. This extends the life of the garment significantly.

Crotch Reinforcement — hand-sewn at the highest-stress point

Lining Options — 3/4 Lining / Half Lining / Full Lining

Choose the level of lining to suit your climate and preference. 3/4 lining covers the seat and thighs; half lining through the knee; full lining runs to the hem for maximum ease of wear.

Hand Stitched Buttonholes

Waistband and fly buttonholes are worked entirely by hand for strength and a refined finish.

Hand Stitched Buttonhole — Trouser waistband, worked entirely by hand

Bar Tack Stitches

Hand-sewn bar tacks at all stress points — belt loops, pocket corners — built to last.

Bar Tack Stitches — trouser pleats & pocket edges, built to last